Wednesday, May 28, 2014

Ksyrium Elite S and Cosmic Elite S Road and Triathlon Wheelsets From Mavic



 

The Famous Ksyrium Elite: Lightweight and Reliable Performance

Road & triathlon wheel: Ksyrium Elite S

 
True to its precedent of offering the high end technlogies usually reserved for only top of the line models, the Ksyrium Elite S takes another step forward to achieve weight savings matched by only a few wheels. This performance is enhanced even more with new extra light Yksion Pro tyres.
 
Weight : 2060 grams (pair of wheel)
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

 

The Access to the Mavic Aerodynamic WTS For Road Racers and Triathletes

Road & triathlon wheel: Cosmic Elite S

 
Cosmic Elite S is designed for high speed addicts. Deep profile rim coupled with high efficiency hubs and excellent bearings quality. This Wheel-Tyre System of choice for all speed enthusiasts now comes with the lightweight low rolling resistance Yksion Comp tyres.

Weight : 2380 grams (pair of wheel)








We'd love to help you choose the best wheelset for your needs. Come in today!


Monday, April 7, 2014

Light It Up For The Most Fun and Safest Night Rides

Safer Night Riding Begins With Good Lighting


Modern high-end light systems offer enough brightness to give your riding companions sunburn (kidding!). And, they come in a wide variety of price points. But, how much light is needed for safe road or off-road riding? We have a wide assortment of bicycle lights for every purpose!

Light It Up

To illuminate the road or trail ahead for your own eyes, not just to be seen at night by others, 10 watts is a good starting point. In general, the greater the headlight's wattage, the brighter the light. There are also systems with yellow and white light, the latter being brighter at the same wattage.

Find The Right Features

Modern lighting systems are packed with features. There are twin- and single-beam headlight systems. There are different battery types (rechargeables are found on better lights). There are ingenious quick-release mounts so you can install and remove the light in a blink. Most lights offer high- and low-beam options like your car (use the high beam for downhills, pitch-black woods, high speed and intersections). There are even computerized light systems on which battery usage and light output is controlled via microchip.


Trail Torch

The ultimate trail setup is having one handlebar light and another on your helmet. The head-mounted light illuminates your field of vision and is especially handy for following bends in the trail because it moves with you as you turn to look (just don't look directly at friends when riding because you'll blind them for a few seconds). Meanwhile, the bar-mounted beam allows monitoring conditions directly in front of the bike for bumps, roots and trail irregularities.

Portable Power

High-watt light systems require large amounts of power so battery systems have gotten very sophisticated. In ascending order of cost, bicycle lighting systems use lead-acid batteries, Nickel-Cadmium (NiCad) batteries, and Nickel-Metal-Hydride (NiMH) batteries. NiCad batteries are lighter and less susceptible to power loss at high or low temperatures than lead-acid, and will last many more recharge cycles. NiMH batteries weigh 30% less than NiCad batteries and offer similar run-times and durability. Proper care and feeding of your battery must be followed to insure you get maximum battery life. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions regarding charging and use of any rechargeable battery.

Night Rides Can Be The Best Rides

Having a good light means you can ride safely at night, which is sometimes the best time to ride. It's after car-commuting hours so the roads are less busy. The sun's gone down, so it's often the most comfortable time of day, too. And, at night, off-road riding can be magical. The best way to decide on a lighting system is to come in and look at some to compare features and cost. Which one is best for you really depends on how and where you plan to use it and how much you'd like to spend. If you can answer these questions, we can help you pick the perfect light.


Wednesday, March 26, 2014

Getting A Seat That Fits — Do You Need A New Saddle?

Symptoms May Include Pain, Discomfort and Lowered Motivation To Ride


How comfortable a seat feels has a lot to do with where your sit bones (those bones you feel when sitting on a curb or bench) rest on the seat. Ideally, those bones will rest on the saddle's padding. If you've been using a seat for a while you can usually see indentations formed by the bones, which allows gauging whether or not the seat is appropriate for your anatomy.

It's hard to predict which seat will be right for a given rider. Sometimes a wider seat solves pain and other times the narrow ones do the trick. It's all a matter of which seat suits your body shape. For starters, the wider your pelvic anatomy, typically the wider you want the seat to be.

 
Modern Seats Offer Improved Comfort
Over the years, more amazing seats have been designed than probably any other bicycle component. And today, there's still a wide array of models to select from, some with fairly wild shapes. One feature shared by many of these seats is a cutaway in the saddle top designed to relieve pressure on sensitive tissues in the genital area. Our customers have found these saddle types to be particularly helpful for eliminating problems with numbness. There are also models that have softer sections in the center of the seat designed to work the same as the cutaway.

Another pressure-point eliminator is gel. Some seat makers use this in the sensitive areas to prevent pressure that causes pain and numbness.

Wear Cycling Clothing


When trying seats, be sure to do so wearing your cycling clothing because if you're wearing pants with seams in the crotch area, you'll feel the seams and won't be able to judge the seat comfort. Also, after putting on a new seat, it's best to re-check saddle height because the shape of the new one may be a little taller than the one you've been using. If a seat is too high or too low, you'll feel discomfort from the incorrect seat position and won't be able to feel whether the seat is an improvement or not. The easiest way to match seat height is to measure it before you remove your original seat. You'll then have the exact height to place the new seat and you won't have to experiment to find your optimum position.


Wednesday, March 19, 2014

Getting The Maximum Mileage From Your Cycling Shoes

"Cycling shoes last far longer than other sports shoes. If you take care of them well, they can last five or even ten years!"


For example, you must replace running shoes every six months (or sooner) because the materials inside the soles lose their ability to provide cushioning. Also, regular sneakers are in constant contact with the ground and the soles and uppers wear rapidly. 

Contrarily, if cared for, a quality pair of pedal pushers could last five or even ten years! 


These easy tips will help you get the most from your shoes:
  • Maintaining the fit: We recommend wearing only cycling socks with your riding shoes because these thin socks won't stretch the shoes, which can ruin the snug fit so important for efficient pedaling.
  • Walking: Shoes made for off-road use or touring sport lugged soles and recessed cleats that are made for easy walking. Road-specific shoes, however, are designed for optimum power transfer when pedaling. While these shoes may include heel and toe tabs for walking, it's best to walk as infrequently as possible. Walking flexes the soles and stretches the shoes. Over time, this changes the fit and the stiffness of the shoes, which decreases efficiency and comfort.
  • Moisture: Water won't hurt cycling shoes as long as you dry them properly. To do this, as soon as you get home, extract any removable liners and stuff the shoes with newspaper, which will absorb the moisture and dry the shoes. Do not place the shoes by a heat source Check those cleat bolts so they won't loosen and ruin your ride!because this can damage them. If the shoes are really wet, replace the newspaper after a few hours (the first batch is probably saturated).
  • Maintenance: While not much can go wrong with cycling shoes, we recommend checking the bolts that attach the cleats to the soles about monthly. If these loosen, the cleats can change position, which may cause knee pain. If you have a pair of shoes with buckles that ratchet, they may be attached with hardware. It's a good idea to regularly check that this hardware is tight, too.
 
 

Monday, March 17, 2014

Looking For A Bike To Cruise The Neighborhood With, Or Ride Around A Local Park?

The 2014 Fuji Barnebey Series Has An Excellent Design and Features For More Relaxing Rides

The 2014 Fuji Barnebey 1, 3, and 7  are all great choices for a relaxing ride around the neighborhood, to the coffee shop, or to a local park for a well-deserved spot of fresh air and exercise. The key to relaxation resides in the foot-forward frame design. By moving the crank position forward, your foot position moves forward as well. The end result is better control, a lower center of gravity and greater comfort. Plus, when you are ready to stop riding, simply place your feet right on the ground. It's that easy.

The 2014 Fuji Barnebey 1 features swept back handlebars and a spring saddle for comfort, a rear coaster brake makes slowing down a breeze and a lightweight alloy frame lets you steer easily as the road turns.


Specifications:
Main Frame: A1 alloy
Rear Triangle: A1 alloy
Fork: Elios 1
Crankset: Cruiser, 38T
Bottom Bracket: Cartridge
Pedals: FPD, platform w/ Kraton non-slip
Cassette: 20T
Chain: KMC Z-410
Wheelset: Alloy Rims 36H w/ alloy front hub, rear coaster brake
Tires: Vera Seaside, 26 x 2.10”, 30tpi
Brake Set: Coaster
Headset: Cruiser, threaded
Handlebar: Cruiser, sweep back
Stem: Cruiser, quill
Tape/Grip: Cruiser, kraton
Saddle: Cruiser, sprung
Seat Post: Cruiser, alloy

The Barnebey 3 features swept back handlebars and a spring saddle for comfort, a rear Shimano coaster brake makes slowing down a breeze and a lightweight alloy frame lets you steer easily as the road turns. 


The Barnebey 7 features swept back handlebars and a spring saddle for comfort, a 7-speed Shimano Revo shifter for slight changes in road grade,and a lightweight alloy frame lets you steer easily as the road turns.

Come in to Gotta Ride Bikes today to see all the incredible bikes we have in stock, including bikes from Fuji, Scott, and LOOK!



Friday, March 7, 2014

Five Easy Tips For Powerful Acceleration

Image: totalwomenscycling.com

Stay Steady When Accelerating To Be Quick and In Control

1. Firmly grip the handlebar drops slightly lower in the bend than normal (not quite halfway between the deepest part of the curve and the end of the bar).

2. Keep your elbows slightly bent to help you hold a straight line.

3. Pull evenly backward and down on the handlebar with every stroke.

4. Don't hold your breath -  a common mistake during sharp efforts, even among experienced riders.

5. Keep your head up - another frequent error in technique, because it feels natural for some reason to drop your chin


Wednesday, March 5, 2014

Cycling Advice: Shifting Tips For A Better Cycling Experience

Quick And Easy Tips To Improving Your Shifting and Extending The Life Of Your Drivetrain

It is extremely important to learn how to use all of the equipment on your bike so that you can use it properly and get the longest life out of your investment. The Drivetrain and shifting mechanisms are no exception.

An important rule to remember is to reduce your applied pressure on the pedals during shifts. As drivetrains have seen many improvements over the years, and have been designed to shift no matter how much pressure is put on the pedals. However, if you ease up on the pressure just a bit, the shifts will be smoother and your chain, cogs and chainrings will last longer.

Here are some more tips to help keep your drivetrain in great working order:

Keeping Your Drivetrain Clean:

Before we even get into proper shifting, it is important to make sure you keep your drivetrain clean and tuned up to extend the life of your drivetrain. We have chain cleaners for sale in the shop that can help get your chain clean and keep it that way.

Every six months or so, inspect your chain and measure to see if it has been stretching.

Pick a chain pin on the top side and measure to any pin 12 inches away. Links are exactly one-inch long, so you should be able to measure exactly 12 inches between two pins. If the measurement is 12 1/8 inch or longer, it's time to replace the chain.

(Check Your Cogs too!)

Remember: cogs wear out at about the same rate as the chain. If you put on a new chain, you will eventually run into skipping cogs - which is at best annoying and at worst dangerous!

Remember to keep the front rings and rear cogs clean. Stay on the lookout for a post about how to clean your chain and drivetrain!

On The Road Tips:

Shift Before Hills:


Even though the hardest place to put less pressure on your pedals is when you are struggling to get up a steep hill. Try changing gears before the steep part of the hill so you can make the shift with out stressing the chain and pedals.

Front Shifts:

Remember when you are shifting the front derailleur that the chainrings are significantly different in size! This means your derailleur has to work hard to move the chain from one to the other. If you can add some finesse to this shift, you are much more likely to get a clean, smooth shift. And, you'll eliminate problems associated with high pressure shifts such as having the chain come off.

There are three or four set spots (shift ramps/shift gates) on the chainrings to make it shift. The chain (while moving forward) needs to contact these ramps to be pulled up onto or down over the chainring. It is very important to hold the shift until the chain comes into contact with a shift ramp. When the chain is under load (meaning there is force on the pedals) this is the ony spot where the chain will shift. Ideally shifting should be done with little load on the chain. When the chain is under load the derailleur will just flex and laugh at you instead of making the shift happen. When there is no load on the chain the derailleur will be able to move it.

Getting Your Chain BACK On:

Usually, you can shift the chain right back on the chainring if it falls off. This is usually impossible when climbing a hill, as you will lose momentum and have to stop. However, any time you are riding and you can coast for a few seconds, you can almost always get the chain back on by gently pedaling and shifting the front derailleur to move the chain toward the ring.

(When a chain comes off repeatedly, something is wrong and you should have us take a look at the front derailleur adjustment.)



Monday, March 3, 2014

Keep Your Bike Extra Protected With These 15 Tips!

Bike Thieves Are Everywhere. Are You Doing Enough To Protect Your Investment?

 

Adapted from a Road.cc article

1. Lock your bike to a secure, immovable object. If you lock your bike to a tree, the limbs can be sawed through. Bollards and signposts are sometimes low enough to pull the bike right over the top!

2. Your wheels are the most vulnerable part of your bike. Make sure that your lock goes through both wheels and the frame. OR, you could use two locks - one for each wheel. There are also locking wheel skewers you can buy for your front wheel.



3. Stealing a bike is not a lengthy process. Even if you are only going to be leaving your bike for 30 seconds, lock your bike up properly.

4. Grab up your lights and other accessories that aren't secured to your bike. Some have even been known to take their saddle to the office or school!

5. It's a smart idea to keep your bike locked up even when it's in your garage. No matter how safe you may feel at your home.

6. When it comes to bike locks - you really do get what you pay for. If you love your bike, buy the
best lock you possibly can. It's a wise investment.

7. If you come back to your bike and it's got a mysterious puncture or damage, walk it home. It's probably been marked in the hope that you'll leave it there overnight.

8. Use a registration service, such as Bike Register, to physically mark your bike with an identifying feature and link it to your identity on the police database.

9. If your bike does go missing, you must report it. The police will only take a bike crime more seriously if they have reason to do so.

10. If you're down to one lock, or are particularly worried about the security of your wheel, taking your front with you eliminates half the risk of theft immediately.

11. Use secure bike parking whenever possible. Even if you have to pay, your bike will be far better protected from theft.



12. Make sure your bike is locked in the most public place possible. Having lots of people around is enough deterrent for most thieves.


13. Make the lock mechanism itself hard to access. For example if you're locking your bike to railings, point the lock mechanism away from the street so it's harder for a thief to attack


 14. Don't leave space in your shackle - any extra space gives evil bike stealing tools the room they need to do their dirty work. Don't give them that opportunity.

15. Most importantly, wherever you're going, please do not forget your lock!




Friday, February 28, 2014

You Have To See It To Believe It — An Invisible Helmet?!


Tired of Helmet Hair? Now You Don't Have To Be!


It is well known that wearing a helmet when you ride a bicycle greatly increases your chances of surviving an accident. If you are constantly riding in traffic, commuting, or just really enjoy riding — your helmet is probably the number one thing you want to make sure you're wearing when you pedal away from your house.

Anna Haupt and Terese Alstin, both Swedish industrial design students came up with an idea for an invisible helmet in 2005 while they were studying at the University of Lund.




The technology is based on airbag technology but also uses motion sensors to detect when the body is moving abnormally. In circumstances when cyclists are in an accident or begin to fall, the helmet deploys an inflatable nylon hood around the cyclists head.

"It recognizes that your body is having an abnormal movement that you can't have unless your body is positioned radically different than how it's supposed to be," Alstin says. "In a way, it's technology that has existed before, but used together in a new way.

A cold gas inflator, positioned in the helmet's back collar, pumps the hood with helium when the sensors are triggered. The helmet stays inflated for several seconds so that it can absorb the shock of multiple hits in the same accident, before releasing the gas, and slowly deflating.

"We're hoping to enter new areas of usage and develop the technology further into new applications [so we can] save people in other ways," she says. "There's a lot to be done– we're definitely not short of ideas"



Monday, February 24, 2014

3 Ways to be Safer In Traffic

Being A Move (or Five) Ahead of Motorists


Anyone who has ridden a bike for an extended period of time has probably had some close calls when cycling in heavy — sometimes even light traffic. While some of those times may be a result of carelessness or multitasking on the part of the rider, we are all too well aware of how distracted and careless drivers can be.

It should suffice to say that defensive riding is the number one way to prevent accidents when out there in the cold street. One reason for that comes from this road proverb: You can drive a truck between what motorists ought to do - what they're legally obliged to do - versus what they actually do. Just because I have the right of way does not mean I can proceed in the comfort that my rights, life and limb will not be violated.

So let's examine a few of the most common places to be aware of danger so that you may avoid nasty collisions or falls.


Cars Turning Right

When passing a motorist (or when one passes you) take a quick second to look through the window of the car. You will be amazed at how much you can divine of a motorist's knowledge and intentions.

Did he see you? Is he looking in his rear or side view mirror? Is he slowing down to make the right turn? Is he concentrated on the flow of incoming traffic— without looking back at you?

Remember - no matter how much it doesn't seem like it - motorists don't want to hit you either. Give them the benefit of the doubt and slow down a bit when you are in a place that you can tell it could be dangerous if motorists are distracted.


Cars Turning Left

Typically, seeing a car that is turning left is not too difficult to do. However, if you are riding in dense traffic, sometimes the traffic going in your same direction can hide a left-turning motorist from your view. If you have to ride in traffic like that, look for an opening in the traffic in front of you. The likeliest reason for this space is to allow a vehicle to cross the road, right in front of you.

Attentive Posture


Many of us who have ridden for a long time know fellow riders who tend to crash more than others. Typically, these are the inattentive riders. This might be excused, but for the consequences. At some point inattentiveness, and the disinclination to practice defensive riding, shifts the blame onto the cyclist. When you decide to engage in the sport of cycling, you're the one who'll pay the steepest price in an accident, regardless of whom is at fault.

The safest posture is to assume the worst from those on the other side. Then, you'll be pleasantly surprised when these drivers do the right thing and, more to the point, you're more likely to arrive home safe and sound and able to ride another day.

Thursday, February 20, 2014

Bicycle Chains. How Are They Made?

Check This Out! Making a Bicycle Chain is a Complex Process!

A bicycle chain is essentially a roller chain. It's designed specifically to transfer pedal power to the bicycles rear drive wheel.


The manufacturing process starts with a punch press. It cuts and presses steel into the shape of chains inner link, which looks a lot like a figure eight. Incredibly, the punch press generates 10,000 links per hour! Each of the links have been made to interconnect, their contours formed to travel easily across the bikes gear sprockets.



Samples of these inner links are sent to a measuring station  to confirm the space between the holes is precisely twelve point seven millimeters. The tester also guages the diameter of the holes which must be accurate to within a fraction of a millimeter.

Then the links are baked in an oven at more than 1500 degrees fahrenheit. The blazing heat followed by a quick cool down hardens the steel. They now shovel these interlinks into a donut shaped machine. They add ceramic and silica powders, and poor in a small amount of water.

They then close this lid on the machine. It shakes vigorously causing the powders and water to form an abrasive paste that polishes the links. They load the polished inner links into a metal basket and shut the door.

Machinery plunges the basket into a series of chemical baths to give these inner links a nickel teflon veneer. The nickel teflon surface will resist corrosion, and it's smooth texture will allow the chain to travel easily over gear sprockets.

The bike chain's outer links get a different kind of finish. Unlike the inner links, they don't travel over sprockets so simple nickel plated will do.


They are now ready to assemble the chain one section at a time. Tubes feed the parts one by one into an assembly machine. Gripper arms adjust their position to assemble the links to other chain components such as retainer rings and spacers.

The machinery presses pins into the links holes to secure the assembly. Then grippers move the completed section of chain down the line.

It takes a whole lot of little pieces to build one short section of bicycle chain. The sections are linked together in one long chain, which winds by an inspection station to be examined for flaws.

 After that the chain takes a dip in hot oil to lubricate the links preventing squeakiness and wear down the road. The chain exits the lubrication station and travels through an absorbent material which soaks up the excess grease. A laser tool then signals the location where the chain has to be cut and blade chops it at the exact spot.

A standard chain is just over fifty six inches in length. It consists of one hundred fourteen inner links and one hundred fourteen external ones. And that's more than you will ever need to know about chains!

Monday, February 17, 2014

[VIDEO] Got A Flat Tire? Fix it in Five Minutes Or Less

Let Richard From Gotta Ride Bikes Talk You Through The Steps Of Changing A Flat 

 

He's Got Some Great Tips and Tricks For Making the Process As Quick and Easy As Possible.

 


Thursday, February 6, 2014

6 Ways To Improve Hand Comfort On The Road

Experiencing Pain or Discomfort In Your Hands? Maybe This Will Help -



Check Out Our Recent Post About Pedaling Efficiency HERE!
 

1. Handlebar-Shoulder Ratio:

One way to get an idea of what width handlebars works best is to measure the distance between your shoulder blades. Have someone hold a yardstick against your back to take a reading.

Drop handlebars come in sizes ranging from about 38-cm to 44-cm wide and you select by matching the width of your shoulders. So, if the distance between your shoulder blades is 42-cm, that's what the handlebar width should be, measured from the center of the other end. Some manufacturer's measure from outside-to-outside, so check with us if you're not sure.  

2. Improve Breathing and Control

The right bar width will provide comfort and increased efficiency because you'll be able to breathe better. It's especially noticeable if you've been using too-narrow a drop handlebar and you climb frequently. You'll appreciate additional leverage too, whenever you stand.

3. Extra Padding

If regular tape doesn't provide enough comfort, another effective improvement can be made by inserting additional bits of padding under the tape and the hoods. In this case, we've used the excellent Marsas foam inserts.

After positioning and holding them in place with electrical tape, try not to overlap the bar tape as much as you would normally when wrapping – you'll need to save a bit for the extra bulk and slightly bigger diameter of the padding to make it last to the end at the top of the bar.
Other padding can be installed under the brake hoods, but this takes a bit of doing, as you have to roll the rubber back far enough to make access easy and prevent folds. Do this before taping up.

4. Bar Tape


The padding on your handlebars is one of the easiest and most effective ways of making your bike a more comfortable ride. Some tapes contain a gel-like material integrated into the fabric to make it even more forgiving.

After you've removed the old tape, start winding the new stuff from the bottom of the handlebars upwards. The trickiest bit is getting the tape to go around the brake lever body in a tidy way; use one of the extra pieces of tape provided to hide the lever clamp – too many wraps around the clamp zone and you may run out before you get to the top of the bars.

Finish off by cutting diagonally in line with the edge of the bar bulge and tape the edge over with some black electrical tape to make it neat and tidy.



5. Try Higher Bars

Riser bars are also available, which are models that slope upwards on the ends to provide less bend in your back when you lean forward to grab the grips. Many off-roaders find that risers are just the ticket for a more comfortable position. THey're also typically a bit wider than flat bars to provide additional leverage, which is helpful on technical terrain.

6. Lever Adjustment

As well as making life safer and less tiring, getting your lever reach correct will boost your confidence by increasing your braking control. Some Shimano STI levers can be moved closer to the bar by either screwing in the small adjustment screw as shown (Sora models) or inserting a set of spacer shims (current Tiagra, ST-R600, ST-R700).

You'll need to release a bit of cable at the brake anchor bolt to bring brake adjustment back to normal, then retighten firmly; but check that the cable hasn't suffered from cut strands at the old pinch point, and replace if in doubt.

If your levers have no adjustment, releasing a little cable will help you achieve an easier braking action, especially if you have smaller hands.


Wednesday, January 22, 2014

Incredible! Team Builds Human Powered Helicopter!

American Helicopter Society Finally Pays Out $250,000 Prize Money


June 13, 2013 will be a date that will be remembered in aviation history as the day the first Human Powered Helicopter was born. A Canadian team called Aero Velo is comprised of mostly students from the University of Toronto.

They built a quad-copter design they named Atlas. The American Helicopter Society's challenge was posed by Igor I Sikorsky over 30 years ago. It represents the third largest monetary prize in aviation history. The monumental feat requires a human to hover to an altitude of 3 meters under his or her own power, and to remain aloft for at least 1 minute. The challenge is a test of ingenuity, athleticism and determination.

The design was created from a frame made of carbon-fiber/Vectran, while the blades were made from polystyrene, balsa wood and polyester film. These elements were then tied together by a bicycle at the center of the machine.

Dr. Todd Reichert, one of the leaders of the team, pedaled to lift the AeroVelo Atlas for 64.11 seconds. The craft reached an altitude of 10.8 feet and drifted only 32 feet during the flight, which took place inside a field house in Vaughan, Ontario.

"No one knows better than we do the enormously difficult engineering and human performance challenges that must be overcome in order to meet these flight requirements." the team said in a statement. "We salute this historic accomplishment of the AeroVelo team and the intense dedication, innovation, research and hard work we know it required."

Thursday, January 16, 2014

How To Choose The Right Mountain Bike

How can you possibly choose the right mountain bike when they come in so many different shapes and sizes, and are used for so many purposes?

Numerous manufacturers provide bikes that are specifically developed to tackle tough terrain and rigorous riding. The most important factor when determining which mountain bike to get is your personal riding preference.

The first thing you have to do is ask yourself a few questions.
Are you going to ride in the mountains?
Are you going to just ride on some dirt roads?
Do you just like the idea of a mountain bike and you're just going to ride on the street?

All of these things will determine which is the right mountain bike for you.

Let's start with the easiest of those.
You like the look and style of a mountain bike, but the reality is the most you will be doing with it is going on some dirt roads.

At that point anything that we carry that is basic and looks like a mountain bike is going to be a good buy. It's still going to have a more dual purpose tire that will be knobby, but it will still roll smooth on the street.

That would be the first thing. Most of the time you will have 21 speeds, an aluminum frame, Shimano or SRAM components. Pretty basic. At this point you don't need disc brakes (But they are nice). You can get a linear pull brake or a v-brake, and you'll be fine. It would be much better for you to get an upgrade in components than to opt for an upgrade to disc brakes at the entry level. 


I may eat my words a little by using the Scott Sporster as an example. It's a go-anywhere machine that is road-bike fast, hybrid-bike capable and fun everywhere. It's lightweight aluminum frame and 63mm travel suspension fork so it floats over roads and paths.

And it comes with disc brakes.







The Contessa Speedster 15 features durable and economical Shimano 105 parts on a 6061 double butted alloy frame for a lightweight bike at a reasonable price.









2014 Scott Scale 750 - Top 5 HT MTBs
Next, for the guy or girl that wants to do a little bit of mountain biking, but not to do extreme jumps or dropoffs. Maybe you just want to hit some local trails with your friends. One of the first features you'd look for is: an adjustable front fork. You want a front shock that has enough travel and enough adjustability to hit those bumps and take up the shock and abuse of hitting rocks and potholes and rain-ruts. The next thing would be looking into disc brakes. The more serious you get about riding, the better brakes you're going to need because of the dirt, mud and grime. You will need better stopping power in those dirty conditions and on steeper descents. Going up and down hills requires a little more precise shifting than just on flat ground. On this type of bike you can go mountain biking often and expect it to live up to the use or abuse on the trail.
2014 Scott Scale 29er Comp - Top 6 29er MTBS



The new custom butted 6061 aluminum Scale 29 Comp is a lightweight and durable 29” hardtail. With Shimano brakes and drivetrain, and the same celebrated geometry as its carbon siblings, it gives you a great value in a big wheeled bike.










The next level up means you have been riding the trails a bit and now you need a new bike. You're going mountain biking every weekend, hitting all the local trails and going to harsher conditions to ride. At that point you're going to be looking for something with longer travel on the front fork that will be larger in diameter. You may get many more features on the front fork, including lockout or damping control. The better the front fork, the better the bike will handle in adverse conditions. You may want to go to hydraulic disc brakes even rather than cable disc brakes, kind of like upgrading to  power brakes on a car. The rims on the better quality bikes are double walled, and the spokes come out of a reinforced  "eyelet" rather than just a hole in the rim. This makes them much stronger and better able to handle rougher terrain. At this point you may want to get that full suspension bike, whereas for a first time rider would want to stick to a hardtail. 


Another consideration when purchasing a mountain bike would be whether to get 26" or 29" rims. This is completely based on preference. The larger diameter (29") wheel is gaining popularity amongst experienced and novice alike. Having 29" wheels allows for better traction due to a larger contact patch with the ground as well as the ability to roll over trail obstacles with more ease while maintaining momentum. The novice rider may find more confidence riding through technical terrain.
The trade-offs with bigger wheels are slower acceleration and increased weight due to the mass of the larger wheels and tires. 

The last consideration is weight. When you are selecting a mountain bike for racing, it's important to keep the weight of the bike down. Mountain biking at a higher level requires riding up and down hills of all sizes, over obstacles with frequent braking and acceleration. The lighter your bike, the easier it is to accomplish these feats. Never sacrifice strength and durability for weight

Remember that you can always come in and demo a bike to find out what works for you. We have a lot of options and sometimes you just need to sit on different bikes to figure it out.