Getting The Maximum Mileage From Your Cycling Shoes

"Cycling shoes last far longer than other sports shoes. If you take care of them well, they can last five or even ten years!"

For example, you must replace running shoes every six months (or sooner) because the materials inside the soles lose their ability to provide cushioning. Also, regular sneakers are in constant contact with the ground and the soles and uppers wear rapidly. 

Contrarily, if cared for, a quality pair of pedal pushers could last five or even ten years! 


These easy tips will help you get the most from your shoes:

• Maintaining the fit: We recommend wearing only cycling socks with your riding shoes because these thin socks won't stretch the shoes, which can ruin the snug fit so important for efficient pedaling.
• Walking: Shoes made for off-road use or touring sport lugged soles and recessed cleats that are made for easy walking. Road-specific shoes, however, are designed for optimum power transfer when pedaling. While these shoes may include heel and toe tabs for walking, it's best to walk as infrequently as possible. Walking flexes the soles and stretches the shoes. Over time, this changes the fit and the stiffness of the shoes, which decreases efficiency and comfort.
• Moisture: Water won't hurt cycling shoes as long as you dry them properly. To do this, as soon as you get home, extract any removable liners and stuff the shoes with newspaper, which will absorb the moisture and dry the shoes. Do not place the shoes by a heat source because this can damage them. If the shoes are really wet, replace the newspaper after a few hours (the first batch is probably saturated).
• Maintenance: While not much can go wrong with cycling shoes, we recommend checking the bolts that attach the cleats to the soles about monthly. If these loosen, the cleats can change position, which may cause knee pain. If you have a pair of shoes with buckles that ratchet, they may be attached with hardware. It's a good idea to regularly check that this hardware is tight, too.

 

 

Five Easy Tips For Powerful Acceleration

Image: totalwomenscycling.com

Stay Steady When Accelerating To Be Quick and In Control

1. Firmly grip the handlebar drops slightly lower in the bend than normal (not quite halfway between the deepest part of the curve and the end of the bar).

2. Keep your elbows slightly bent to help you hold a straight line.

3. Pull evenly backward and down on the handlebar with every stroke.

4. Don't hold your breath -  a common mistake during sharp efforts, even among experienced riders.

5. Keep your head up - another frequent error in technique, because it feels natural for some reason to drop your chin

Cycling Advice: Shifting Tips For A Better Cycling Experience

Quick And Easy Tips To Improving Your Shifting and Extending The Life Of Your Drivetrain

It is extremely important to learn how to use all of the equipment on your bike so that you can use it properly and get the longest life out of your investment. The Drivetrain and shifting mechanisms are no exception.

An important rule to remember is to reduce your applied pressure on the pedals during shifts. As drivetrains have seen many improvements over the years, and have been designed to shift no matter how much pressure is put on the pedals. However, if you ease up on the pressure just a bit, the shifts will be smoother and your chain, cogs and chainrings will last longer.

Here are some more tips to help keep your drivetrain in great working order:

Keeping Your Drivetrain Clean:

Before we even get into proper shifting, it is important to make sure you keep your drivetrain clean and tuned up to extend the life of your drivetrain. We have chain cleaners for sale in the shop that can help get your chain clean and keep it that way.

Every six months or so, inspect your chain and measure to see if it has been stretching.

Pick a chain pin on the top side and measure to any pin 12 inches away. Links are exactly one-inch long, so you should be able to measure exactly 12 inches between two pins. If the measurement is 12 1/8 inch or longer, it's time to replace the chain.

(Check Your Cogs too!)

Remember: cogs wear out at about the same rate as the chain. If you put on a new chain, you will eventually run into skipping cogs - which is at best annoying and at worst dangerous!

Remember to keep the front rings and rear cogs clean. Stay on the lookout for a post about how to clean your chain and drivetrain!

On The Road Tips:

Shift Before Hills:

Even though the hardest place to put less pressure on your pedals is when you are struggling to get up a steep hill. Try changing gears before the steep part of the hill so you can make the shift with out stressing the chain and pedals.

Front Shifts:

Remember when you are shifting the front derailleur that the chainrings are significantly different in size! This means your derailleur has to work hard to move the chain from one to the other. If you can add some finesse to this shift, you are much more likely to get a clean, smooth shift. And, you'll eliminate problems associated with high pressure shifts such as having the chain come off.

There are three or four set spots (shift ramps/shift gates) on the chainrings to make it shift. The chain (while moving forward) needs to contact these ramps to be pulled up onto or down over the chainring. It is very important to hold the shift until the chain comes into contact with a shift ramp. When the chain is under load (meaning there is force on the pedals) this is the ony spot where the chain will shift. Ideally shifting should be done with little load on the chain. When the chain is under load the derailleur will just flex and laugh at you instead of making the shift happen. When there is no load on the chain the derailleur will be able to move it.

Getting Your Chain BACK On:

Usually, you can shift the chain right back on the chainring if it falls off. This is usually impossible when climbing a hill, as you will lose momentum and have to stop. However, any time you are riding and you can coast for a few seconds, you can almost always get the chain back on by gently pedaling and shifting the front derailleur to move the chain toward the ring.

(When a chain comes off repeatedly, something is wrong and you should have us take a look at the front derailleur adjustment.)

6 Ways To Improve Hand Comfort On The Road

Experiencing Pain or Discomfort In Your Hands? Maybe This Will Help -

Check Out Our Recent Post About Pedaling Efficiency HERE!

 

1. Handlebar-Shoulder Ratio:

One way to get an idea of what width handlebars works best is to measure the distance between your shoulder blades. Have someone hold a yardstick against your back to take a reading.

Drop handlebars come in sizes ranging from about 38-cm to 44-cm wide and you select by matching the width of your shoulders. So, if the distance between your shoulder blades is 42-cm, that's what the handlebar width should be, measured from the center of the other end. Some manufacturer's measure from outside-to-outside, so check with us if you're not sure.  

2. Improve Breathing and Control

The right bar width will provide comfort and increased efficiency because you'll be able to breathe better. It's especially noticeable if you've been using too-narrow a drop handlebar and you climb frequently. You'll appreciate additional leverage too, whenever you stand.

3. Extra Padding

If regular tape doesn't provide enough comfort, another effective improvement can be made by inserting additional bits of padding under the tape and the hoods. In this case, we've used the excellent Marsas foam inserts.

After positioning and holding them in place with electrical tape, try not to overlap the bar tape as much as you would normally when wrapping – you'll need to save a bit for the extra bulk and slightly bigger diameter of the padding to make it last to the end at the top of the bar.
Other padding can be installed under the brake hoods, but this takes a bit of doing, as you have to roll the rubber back far enough to make access easy and prevent folds. Do this before taping up.

4. Bar Tape


The padding on your handlebars is one of the easiest and most effective ways of making your bike a more comfortable ride. Some tapes contain a gel-like material integrated into the fabric to make it even more forgiving.

After you've removed the old tape, start winding the new stuff from the bottom of the handlebars upwards. The trickiest bit is getting the tape to go around the brake lever body in a tidy way; use one of the extra pieces of tape provided to hide the lever clamp – too many wraps around the clamp zone and you may run out before you get to the top of the bars.

Finish off by cutting diagonally in line with the edge of the bar bulge and tape the edge over with some black electrical tape to make it neat and tidy.



5. Try Higher Bars

Riser bars are also available, which are models that slope upwards on the ends to provide less bend in your back when you lean forward to grab the grips. Many off-roaders find that risers are just the ticket for a more comfortable position. THey're also typically a bit wider than flat bars to provide additional leverage, which is helpful on technical terrain.

6. Lever Adjustment

As well as making life safer and less tiring, getting your lever reach correct will boost your confidence by increasing your braking control. Some Shimano STI levers can be moved closer to the bar by either screwing in the small adjustment screw as shown (Sora models) or inserting a set of spacer shims (current Tiagra, ST-R600, ST-R700).

You'll need to release a bit of cable at the brake anchor bolt to bring brake adjustment back to normal, then retighten firmly; but check that the cable hasn't suffered from cut strands at the old pinch point, and replace if in doubt.

If your levers have no adjustment, releasing a little cable will help you achieve an easier braking action, especially if you have smaller hands.

Top Rules of Cycling #11-20

Follow Any of These Rules To See Improvement in Your Ride!

Stay On The Lookout For the Rest of The Rules!

11. Train Your Weaknesses

Even though this may seem vague and obvious, this is much more about identifying your weaknesses and THEN training them. Professional endurance racer Mark Weir makes his living blasting through corners, but that wasn't always the case. "I was a semi-pro downhiller racing in Park City, Utah, and there was a corner that I thought just sucked," he recalls. "I told Jan Karpiel, one of my sponsors, about it, and he said: 'The corner doesn't suck, you suck at that corner.' I realized then that training my weaknesses is far more important than sticking with my strengths.


 
12. Check Your Tire Pressure Before Each Ride

13. Learn to Bunny Hop on Your Road Bike

Doing an unclipped hop shows you how changes in body position affect your bike's behavior — knowledge that will boost your confidence on steep downhills, rough roads, and in corners.

A. Replace your clipless pedals with platforms and your cycling shoes with soft-soled sneakers.

B. Ride across a flat, grassy field at slightly faster than walking speed, standing on your pedals, cranks level with the ground, elbows and knees slightly bent.

C. Push down on the handlebar while bending your knees even farther so you are crouched over the saddle. Then immediately pull up and back on your bar as you shift your weight back to get the front tire up.

D. With the front tire off the ground, shift your weight forward as you push the handlebar ahead and hop up with your legs to lift the rear wheel.

14. Fitness Takes Time

No crash diet or hell week of training will magically propel you into top form. "You've got to work toward it all season long," says Pierre Rolland, the best young rider of the 2011 Tour de France.

15. If something is painful like your knee, back, or wrists, you should consider getting a professional fitting. 

Many websites and blogs offer instructions to "do-it-yourself," however — it's a much better idea to let a professional fine tune your bike to your anatomy.

16. Wash Your Bike

Especially after a wet or muddy ride. Mist it with a garden hose or soak it using a bucket of soapy water. Wipe it down and rinse, then dry it with a clean rag or towel. Don't forget to lube your chain.

17. Buy a Torque Wrench and Learn How to Use It

This is mandatory for carbon parts, but will also extend the life of all stems, handlebars, bottom brackets, seatpost clamps, and suspension pivots



18. Speaking of Your Chain

A well-maintained and lubricated chain could last 3,000 road miles ore more, but check it every 500. Here's how: Take a ruler and place the 0 at the rivet of one link. If the ruler's 12 inch mark aligns closely with another rivet, you're in good shape. If it's more that 1/16th of an inch away, replace the chain.

 

19. Respect Your Front Brake

Applying 60 percent front brake will bring you to a smooth, controlled stop. But on steep descents or during rapid decelerations, you'll want to rely even more heavily on the front.

Be sure to shift your weight behind your saddle to prevent yourself from sailing over the handlebar

20. Stick With Your Group

Whether you're embarking on a 500-mile charity ride or racing Paris-Nice, there's safety in numbers. Teammates and friends can pull if you're feeling tired, share their food, or help fix a mechanical issue. "I've seen this so many times," says Chris Horner. "A guy is leading the race and is really strong and so he goes into a breakaway. But what happens if he crashes or flats? He is all alone. Stay with your group as long as possible.

Stay tuned for more GREAT tips, video reviews and much much more!

Gotta Ride Bikes is located at
20475 Hwy 46 West #210 in Bulverde , TX 78070
 (830) 438-1229
www.gottaridebikes.com

First Ten Rules of Cycling (of 50 from Bicycling.com)

Tips To Make You A Better Cyclist

(bicycling.com)

1. Layer Like A Wedding Cake

With winter months approaching, it's a great idea to pack yourself with layers to make it easy to regulate your temperature. Booties, vests and skullcaps, as well as arm, knee, and leg warmers can all be stashed in pockets as the day warms up.

2. Keep Your Head Up

Looking far down the road or trail will help when you see approaching traffic, spot the best line through corners, or recognize when someone's making a break.

 

3. Carry a Frame Pump. And a Spare Tube. And a Multi-tool with a chain breaker.

Basically, be prepared. You never know what you might face out there.

4. Listen to Your Bike

"A click or pop or scraping noise doesn't heal itself," says Calvin Jones, director of education at Park Tool. Pay attention to the sounds emanating from your ride and you'll know when it's time for some TLC.

Noise: Rattling over bumps
Common Culprit: Loose bottle-cage bolts or quick-release skewers
Solution: Tighten them

Noise: Thunk/shudder during braking or over bumps
Common Culprit: Loose headset
Solution: Adjust headset to remove excess play

Noise: Squeaking while pedaling
Common Culprit: Dry chain
Solution: Lube

Noise: Pop, followed by a skipping chain
Common Culprit: Frozen chain link; worn cassette and chain
Solution: Find and free frozen link... or replace chain, chainrings, and cassette.

Noise: Grinding noise during braking
Common Culprit: Grit in brake pads
Solution: Sand pads lightly to remove grit and grime

Noise: Clicks, squeals, or whines
Common Culprit: Could be any number of problems-from a loose stem to worn bottom-bracket bearings
Solution: Head in to Gotta Ride Bikes so we can fix it for you!

See our related post 22 Common  Cycling Issues and Their Solutions here!



5. Have a Plan

Improvement does not come accidentally. If you want to take your riding to the next level, you need to craft a strategy and set incremental goals to reach it. "Better yet, hire a coach to guide your way," suggests three-time Leadville 100 champion Rebecca Rusch.

 
6. Embrace the Rain

Unless you live in the desert, soggy rides are a part of life. Just dress appropriately: Layers and a rain jacket are optional during the summer, but become essential when temperatures begin to drop.

7. Keep a Spare Kit in Your Car

You never know when you'll have the chance to sneak in a ride. Borrowing or renting a bike is easy, but it's harder to find a spare helmet, shoes, and chamois. Keeping a kit in your car all but ensures you'll never miss an impromptu ride. Scour bike swaps for secondhand shoes, pedals, and other items, but buy a new helmet.

8. It's Okay to Stop

Don't be afraid to pull over for a good swimming hole, hot spring, ice-cream stand, cafe, bakery, or dive bar. In fact, some of the best rides are planned around these diversions.

 

9. Keep Your Perspective

Like most young professional riders, Ted King is learning how to balance the demands of training and family obligations with the extensive travel and training his job requires. Here's what he's learned so far.

When training: set a goal for every ride- even if the goal is recovery
When racing: ride smart, don't chop corners, and remember that the local shop ride is not the World Championships
On the road: think like a motorist. Maybe there's a reason the guy in the pickup truck is pissed at you.
 

 
10. Refuel Right

The key recovery window is the 30 minutes following a ride; that's when your body needs protein to repair muscles and help reload its energy stores, so make sure to get at least 20 to 25 grams. Stacy Sims, a nutritionist at Stanford University, recommends six to eight ounces of nonfat Greek yogurt with walnuts or berries. Or try this protein rich smoothie: Before working out, put 1.5 scoops whey protein powder, 1/2 cup frozen strawberries or blueberries, 1/2 frozen banana, 2 tablespoons nonfat Greek yogurt, 2 tablespoons flaxseed meal, and 1 cup vanilla almond milk into a blender (but don't blend it yet). Store in the refrigerator. Whirl and drink when you return.

Gotta Ride Bikes is located at

20475 Hwy 46 West #210 in Bulverde , TX 78070
 (830) 438-1229

www.gottaridebikes.com

Easy Tips To Perfect Your Pedaling

When It Comes To Increasing Pedaling Efficiency, The Number One Rule Is: PRACTICE!

One pedaling drill you can do on any ride with downhills is spinning the pedals as quickly as possible as you accelerate down slopes. To do this correctly, leave the bike in a gear that's too easy, one that forces you to fan the pedals to keep up with the speed of the bike. Your goal is to rev your legs as quickly as you can while remaining seated. At first, you'll probably bounce a lot on the seat. But, with practice, you should be able to stay in the seat and maintain a calm upper body even though your legs are spinning at supersonic speed. If you do this drill a lot, your pedaling speed and efficiency will quickly improve.


 

Try Rollers
If you're willing to purchase a handy piece of cycling equipment, a great way to smooth your spin is to train indoors on rollers. Rollers consist of a frame with three spinning drums (one for the front wheel, two for the rear), with a rubber belt connecting the front drum to one of the rear drums. You put your bike on the rollers and start to pedal and you can balance and ride just like you do spinning down the road outside. Most rollers have optional equipment that allows increasing resistance because there isn't much drag from just the roller unit itself.

Develop A Winning Spin 
Rollers require above-average balance and exaggerate any pedaling flaws. With enough practice, you naturally eliminate pedaling problems because they're so noticeable. And, when that happens, you ride faster with the same effort because your pedaling becomes more efficient and more of your energy goes into driving the bike.

Think they're just for roadies? Actually, the concentration and spin improvement builds confidence and the ability to ride tight singletrack, maintain your balance in slick mud and skirt narrow ledges high in the mountains, too.

Forced Spinning 
 A classic cycling trick to improve pedaling technique is riding a fixed-gear bike in the winter. Constant pedaling is required because you can't coast. And you must accelerate pedal speed on downhills because you can't shift. These factors combine to smooth your pedal stroke and force you to spin complete circles. Pick ride routes that avoid steep climbs and descents. You don't need to buy a new bike to pull this one off, either. A threaded-hub wheel, a track cog, a BMX chain and a few axle spacing tricks can turn your regular bike into a fixed-gear rig. We can help with the conversion.

Try The Track
 If you're one of the privileged few who can ride a track bike at a velodrome (a circular, banked track for cycling), you'll reap the same benefits as training on a fixed-gear bike. Never ride a track bike on the road, though. Brakes are a must on the street, and track bikes don't have them.

Did You Enjoy This Post? Check Out this one on 10 Steps to Road Bike Comfort


Hearing a Weird Noise? Creaky Crankset? Check out 22 Common Cycling Issues and Their Solutions

Come to Gotta Ride Bikes for all your cycling needs.

10 Steps to Road Bike Comfort (brought to you by Bikeradar)

Some Tools Required

• Multi-tool
• Scissors
• Electrical tape
• Oil
• Gel-tape
• Suspension Seatpost
• Bar Padding
• Upright Stem 

Even BikeRadar says its hard to beat the local bike shop to get good advice and one-stop shopping. They like the fact that they can get a close-up look at the accessories and feel the textures, dimensions and weight.

Here we go. Thanks BikeRadar!

1. Handlebar Tape

The padding on your handlebars is one of the easiest and most effective ways of making your bike a more comfortable ride. Some tapes contain a gel-like material integrated into the fabric to make it even more forgiving.

After you've removed the old tape, start winding the new stuff from the bottom of the handlebars upwards. The trickiest bit is getting the tape to go around the brake lever body in a tidy way; use one of the extra pieces of tape provided to hide the lever clamp — too many wraps around the clamp zone and you may run out before you get to the top of the bars.

Finish off by cutting diagonally in line with the edge of the bar bulge and tape the edge over with some black electrical tape to make it neat and tidy.



2. Extra padding:

If regular tape doesn't provide enough comfort, another effective improvement can be made by inserting additional bits of padding under the tape and the hoods.

After positioning and holding them in place with electrical tape, try not to overlap the bar tape as much as you normally would when wrapping- you'll need to save a bit for the extra bulk and slightly bigger diameter of the padding to make it last to the end at the top of the bar.

Other padding can be installed under the brake hoods, but this takes a bit of doing, as you have to roll the rubber back far enough to make access easy and prevent folds. Do this before taping up.

3. Riser stem: heads up!

A simple stem swap can work wonders. Start by removing the old one with the bike on the ground (to stop the fork falling out). The M6 threaded Allen bolt in the top cap holds the stem to the fork and adjusts the headset.

Use a 5mm Allen key to remove the cap. You'll then be able to swap stems after loosening the clamping bolts. A light coating of grease on metallic matting surfaces or some assembly paste on carbon steerers will keep things creak-free later on.

Tighten the bar and steerer clamp bolts by nipping up gradually and evenly. Don't overdo it on modern lightweight stems with fragile 4mm Allen bolts; just tighten enough so you can't twist the bars when holding the front wheel between your legs.

4. Lever adjustment

As well as making life easier and less tiring, getting your lever reach correct will boost your confidence by increasing your braking control. Some Shimano STI levers can be moved closer to the bar by either screwing in the small adjustment screw or inserting a set of spacer rims.

You'll need to release a bit of cable at the brake anchor bolt to bring brake adjustment back to normal, then retighten firmly; but check that the cable hasn't suffered from cut strands at the old pinch point, and replace if in doubt.

If your levers have no adjustment, releasing a little cable will help you achieve an easier braking action, especially if you have smaller hands.

5. Slippery shifting

Slippery cables reduce shifting effort. Shift into the lowest gear (largest cog) at the back, then, with wheel and crank stationary, activate the return lever while gently pulling on the cable to create slack. Pop out the cable outer from the slot, wipe the inner clean, then lubricate generously with medium viscosity chain oil.

Re-insert the outers and run through the gears, making sure all housing ends are correctly seated in guides. Repeat for the front in the high gear (big ring).

6. Short & Shallow bar

The bar pictured can be a perfect solution to reach problems for those of you with smaller hands. It doesn't project as far forward from the flats as a standard bar, and it doesn't drop as low, making it easier to grab the controls/levers from the drops.

It also keeps you more upright. This modification is a little involved, as it requires the removal and re-installation of the levers. The lever clamp bolt is found underneath the rubber hood at a slight angle, on the outside of the lever body on Shimano, on top about halfway under the hood on Campagnolo and on top nearly at the bar with SRAM.

Remove the tape holding the cables, clamp the bar correctly and reposition the levers accordingly, making sure they are high enough on the bend. Tighten firmly, and then re-tape. You'll have all the advantages of a multi-hand-position drop bar without the pain.




7. Suspension seatpost

Current Far Eastern suspension seatposts are wellmade, not too heavy and come in several diamters, with 27.2mm being the most common.

If your bike's seat tube diameter is an unusual size, you may have to resort to the pricier - and generally better - USE brand, which offers a full choice of shims around its 25.0 or 27.2mm seatpost diameters.

Clean out the seat tube by partially jamming down a cloth with some WD-40 and a blunt screwdriver. Grab the exposed bit and twist several times while removing.

On steel or aluminum frames, use a piece of fine sandpaper to smooth off any sharp edges around the clamp slot inside the seat tube. Clean and grease the clamp bolt, then use assembly paste for carbon or grease for metal-to-metal while installing the seatpost.


(Comfier saddle)



An obvious port of call for increased comfort. Don't go too wide though, because if the back of the saddle gets in the way of your legs it will wreak havoc with any notions of smooth pedaling.

Clean the clamp pieces and bolts before reassembling. Apply grease to all contact points (including rails), and in particular the bolt threads and head. Set the saddle lever  ever so slightly nose down, and a bit forward of the halfway point, the goal being a more upright position with less pressure from the nose of the saddle.

As a starting point, adjust the height until your heel can't quite touch the pedal in the fully extended position (pedal at 6 o'clock). When you place the ball of your foot slightly forward of the pedal axle, you should have slight bend in the knee.

9. Bigger Tires

Moving up to bigger tires can soften the ride considerably without adding significant rolling resistance. There's usually enough room to accommodate a 28mm width in a place of a 23, but if in doubt, fit a 25.

Measure the gap between the brake calipers — in particular the fork crown — because this is where a wider tire is most likely to cause a problem. You should be able to spot whether you've got the extra 2-5mm required for clearance.

Your old inner tubes should still work fine in a larger tire unless you're making a huge leap from an 18 or 21 to a 28, in which case you might consider getting matching tubes. Make sure you seat the bead correctly at the valve before inflating, and check for tire rub against the frame, fork and brakes.

10. Rear view mirror

Ever tried to ride a racing bike in traffic after waking up in the morning with a stiff neck? Not easy, as those of you with chronic back or neck problems from previous injuries or other causes will attest.

Not only will this addition make life easier on the road, it'll make it safer. Remove the old bar plug and install the mirror in the end of the handlebar while paying attention to knee clearances. Although mirrors are designed to fit most internal diameters, you might have to file a bit of material away around the plastic wedge.

Adjust to catch a view of just the back of your rear tire in the left edge of the mirror. Having a mirror on your bars may not add the most sophisticated touch to your bike's looks, but if your neck or body is suffering from having to twist around in traffic, you'll soon appreciate it.