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Ride Faster and Finish Stronger Than Ever

Training Your Core Can be Just As Important As Your Legs

You know how important it is to have strong leg muscles when cycling, because they provide the most tangible source of power. If you have strong leg muscles, this is how you are able to start every ride strong and get up to a nice riding speed. Soon though, you find yourself getting back aches, and feeling tired in the saddle.

The problem is, "You can have all the leg-strength in the world, but without a stable core you won't be able to use it efficiently," says Graeme Street, founder of Cyclo-CORE, and a personal trainer in Essex, Connecticut.

Your abs and lower back are the vital foundation from which all movement, including your pedal stroke, stems. What's more, a solid core will help eliminate unecessary upper-body movement, so all the energy you produce is delivered into a smooth pedal stroke.

It only takes about 10 minutes to complete this intense routine designed by Street.

Dimity McDowell of Bicycling.com and Street say that if you do this routine, in this order, three times a week you will create a core that lets you ride faster, longer, more powerfully - and finish stronger than ever.


1. Boxer Ball Crunch
   What It Works: Transverse abdominus, obliques, lower back

A. Lie with the middle of your back on a stability ball, your knees bent 90 degrees and your feet flat on the floor. Place your hands behind your head, but don't pull on your neck.


B. Squeezing your belly button toward your spine, lift your upper back off the ball. Keeping your shoulders off the ball, trace a clockwise oval with your torso. Apply pressure with your lower back to keep the ball still through the entire motion. After 15 clockwise ovals, trace 15 counterclockwise.

Why It Works: Despite the straightforward motion of the bike, your body moves in three directions: forward as you head down the road, vertically as your legs pedal up and down, and laterally as your hips and upper body rock side to side. "This fluid, circular exercise builds control," says Street, and that helps you minimize lateral torsion and wasted motion.

2. Power Bridge
    What It Works: Hip flexors, glutes, lower back

A. Lying on your back, bend your knees and place your heels near your glutes. Arms are at your sides, palms down.

B. In one smooth motion, squeeze your glutes, raise your hips off the floor and push up from your heels to form a straight line from shoulders to knees; toes come off the floor slightly. Hold for two seconds. Keeping your toes raised, lower yourself three-quarters of the way to complete one rep. Do 20 repetitions.

Why It Works: In addition to stretching the hip flexors, often extremely stiff in cyclists, the bridge strengthens the link between your lower back and glutes.

3. Hip extension
    What It Works: Lower back, hamstrings, glutes

A. Lying with your hips and stomach on the stability ball, put your hands on the floor directly under your shoulders, and extend your legs with toes resting on the floor.

B. With a straight spine and shoulder blades back, as if you're trying to make them touch, lift both legs off the floor, keeping them straight. If possible, raise them slightly higher than parallel to the floor. Hold for two seconds and lower. Do 20 reps.

Why It Works: This movement builds backside strength, for added efficiency on the second half of the pedal stroke.
 
 4. Plank
     What It Works: Transverse abdominus, upper and lower back

A. Lying on your stomach, place your elbows under your shoulders with forearms and hands on the floor.

B. Lift your hips off the floor, keeping your back straight and abs tight, and rest on your toes. Aim for 60 seconds.

Why It Works: The plank builds the strength and muscular endurance you need to ride powerfully in the drops or in an aero position long after others have surrendered to the top of the handlebar.

5. Transverse Plank
    What It Works: Transverse abdominus and obliques

A. Lie on your right side, with your right elbow under your shoulder, forearm in front for stability, and stack your left foot on your right. Raise your left arm over your head.

B. In one motion, lift your hips to create a straight line down your left side. Lower your hips a few inches off the floor; do 10 to 15 reps, then switch sides.

Why It Works: Strong obliques improve your stability in the saddle, letting you take on hairpin corners with more control and speed.
 
6. Scissors Kick
    What It Works: Transverse abdominus, hip flexors, inner and outer thighs

A. Lying on your back with legs straight, place both hands palms down under your lower back.

B. Pushing your elbows down into the floor and pulling your belly button toward your spine, raise your shoulders off the floor and look toward the ceiling. Raise your leg 4 inches off the ground and scissor them: left leg over right, then right over left. That's one rep. Work up to 100.

Why It Works:  A comprehensive movement that connects key cycling muscles, the kick also builds inner-thigh muscles, which help you achieve hip, knee and forefoot alignment for a proper and efficient pedal stroke

7. Catapult
    What It Works: Entire core

A. Sitting with a slight bend in your knees, press your heels against the floor. Extend arms to the front at shoulder height, palms facing each other.

B. With a straight spine and upward gaze, inhale deeply, then exhale and slowly lower your torso to the floor over five counts as you inhale. Arms are overhead.

C. In one smooth movement, leading with the arms, exhale and explode back to the starting position. Do 20 reps.

Why It Works: Contrary to its name, the catapult encourages supreme body control.

8. Boat Pose
    What It Works: Transverse abdominus, lower back

A. Sit, resting both hands lightly behind you, and lean back until your torso is at a 45-degree angle.

B. Keeping your legs together, lift them off the floor as you extend arms forward at shoulder height. Abs are tight, as thighs and torso form a 90 degree angle. If your hamstrings are tight, you'll need to bend your knees a little. Work up to holding for 60 seconds.

Why It Works: As with the plank, this pose builds the lower-back stability and core strength needed to remain bent over the handlebar for hours, or to blast up hills without compromising power or speed

Following this regimen will give you some improvement in your core strength, riding ability and endurance. Stay Tuned to our blog for more cycling tips!

CLOSEOUT BIKE- Click For Details

Kestrel Talon SRAM Force Carbon Road Bike

Reg: $2999.99

  Sale: $1699.96


(Please note that due to the already low prices on our closeouts, discount coupons will not apply to this item.)

FEATURING: SRAM Force drivetrain

Highest Quality Carbon
Since 1987, Kestrel has been meticulously hand-building their carbon frames using the tightest quality control standards in the industry. Their goal - perfecting the science of speed. Kestrel was the first to launch an all carbon bike and thus wrote the book on bicycle performance: weight, stiffness, efficiency, and even the shape of the bicycle itself. With over 20 years of carbon fiber experience under their belts, Kestrel is a name you can feel confident in.

Superb Ride
Kestrel's geometry has been painstakingly refined to maximize ride comfort and handling grip. Every Kestrel frame comes with a matching, frame-specific fork that's engineered and ride tuned for perfectly balanced handling with a sensitive road feel and superb ride comfort. The Kestrel has been said to have one of "the most aero frames you can legally race".
Just like the award winning RT700, the Talon uses Kestrel's unmatched carbon fiber know-how for a superior riding experience. Superb stiffness, superior strength, durability and Kestrel's legendary aerodynamic geometry lend to a road-smoothing ride with precise handling and efficient power transfer. Size-specific tuning optimizes the ride for every size, so you get the same precise handling with a responsive feel regardless of how big you are or where you ride.

Highest Technology
This Kestrel is formed from a weight-shaving 700k Carbon fiber hybrid with a Modular monocoque aerodynamic frame design.

FEATURES - 

Constantly varying tube sections and optimized shapes throughout, for increased torsional rigidity and bottom bracket stiffness

Semi-sloping top tube for lower center of gravity and stiffer main triangle

Structurally optimized one-piece modular Monocoque main triangle

Size-specific, proportionally scaled tube and junction profiles for consistent ride quality and superior stiffness in every size

Aero-sculpted and sleek, for solo breakaways

Reinforced bottom bracket and chainstays for power transfer

Dedicated Kestrel EMS Carbon fork, co-engineered with the frame for balanced handling feel and precision

Full Internal cable routing

Semi-integrated headset for a low profile, optimal stiffness and full replaceability

Ultraclean rear brake cable exit integrated into seatpost binder

Proprietary, dropouts and fork

Replaceable derailleur hanger

Sculpted H-shape seatstays are tuned to damp vibration so less road buzz reaches the saddle

Precision-tuned fork for cutting fast downhill bends or criterium corners Frame weight = 1.3kg* (approx avg.)

COMPONENTS -

  Frame - 700k Carbon Fiber - Structurally optimized one-piece modular Monocoque main triangle, Reinforced bottom bracket and chainstays for power transfer, 2xH2O bottle mounts, replaceable derailleur hanger,Frame weight = 1.3kg

Fork - Kestrel Fluid Design Dedicated Carbon Fiber fork with 1.125 inch aluminum steerer tube, co-engineered with the frame for balanced handling feel and precision

Crankset - FSA Carbon SLK-Lite w/ Hollow Integrated Spindle, 7075 CNC 39/53T Chainring

Bottom Bracket - FSA MegaEXO exterior bearing system

Front Derailleur - Shimano 105, Braze-on

Rear Derailleur - Shimano Dura Ace 7800

Shifters - Shimano Dura Ace 7800

Cassette - Shimano Ultegra 6600, 10-speed, 12-25T

Chain - Shimano 5600

Wheels - Mavic Aksium Race

Brake Set - Cane Creek SC 3 w/Cartridge Pads

Brake Levers - Shimano Dura Ace 7800 integrated with shifters

Headset - FSA Orbit Road Sealed Cartridge Bearing Threadless 1 1/8"

Handlebar - Profile Hammer OS Aluminum Bar 31.8mm

Stem - Profile H2O Aluminum threadless

Saddle - San Marco Island Ponza with Cro-Mo rails

Seat Post - Kestrel Fluid Design Carbon Aero 

New 2014 Scott Vanish Aero Road Helmet Makes Waves — Rather, Cuts Through Them

40 Prototypes and an Entire Year of Development Result In the Ideal Aerodynamic Shape

Scott's engineers have been working with sports engineers from the Australian University of Aledaide with the primary objective of significantly reducing drag. They have spent a year looking at the difference in airflow around the helmet in different positions, from cruising (head is more flat) to flat out sprinting (head more angled downward).

"The challenge was to perfectly match the ideal aerodynamic shape given by the wind tunnel study with the manufacturing and the cooling requirements,” says Alexandre Dimitriou, helmet engineer at SCOTT Sports, “while also keeping an attractive and aggressive design.”

After testing many of the iterations, they settled into a design: an attractive, aero round cover with open notches at the rear and central vents with two 1.2mm ribs running from front to back along the sides and three vents at the front with inner cooling channels and exhaust ports around the back to ensure a degree of ventilation.

Of course, many other companies have been moving towards more aero helmets, but that's why Scott partnered up with a renowned university in Australia to provide a truly aero helmet, not just an "uncut standard shell on (the) existing helmet" says John Thompson (Helmet Product Manager at Scott). "As a result of this collaboration we are proud to offer our riders a helmet with real advantage based on solid science."

It doesn't get much better than that.




Come down to either Gotta Ride Bikes Location TODAY to see our current selection of helmets, and be sure to Follow us on Facebook to stay updated with shop and brand news, video reviews, sales, and much much more.

[Photos] 2014 Scott Spark 930 29er Review: Great Frame, Great Kit, Great Ride

"Scott introduced their Spark 29er last year, and the potentially ultra-light, remote lockout-equipped machine only continued Scott’s deserved popularity among racers"

Ride & handling: Naturally fast and fun

With a reasonable all-up weight and immediate shock lockout, the Spark spins up fireroads and tarmac well and the ‘high’ chip position gives it a more perched cross-country feel. The middle setting is essential for stopping back-end bob and morale sapping suck-down in high torque/low rev situations on rougher climbs, however, and that in turn makes it more prone to spilling traction and momentum over the bigger lumps.

With the geometry chip in low and the shock fully open, the Spark feels like a proper badass. The rollover effect of the big volume tires offsets the twin chamber-compromised feel of the rear shock, so while it doesn’t enhance the ride it doesn’t undermine it too badly either. 

Add impressive mainframe stiffness and that smooth-riding Fox fork and the Spark’s downhill and tech trail attitude is all about minimum braking and maximum speed. The downhill trails were definitely the Scott’s time to shine.

The low center of gravity and relaxed head encourages you to properly throw it through corners too, though you may want to consider a tire upgrade to get the most out of this bike.



Frame & equipment: Decent kit on an excellent frame, shock aside

The seriously light 930 is the cheapest carbon front/alloy rear Spark frame. The skinny quick-release rear axle means some tracking flex, but shifter and shock cables are internal and the bottom bracket is a very stiff, light press-fit design. The neat bar lever toggles the twin chamber shock from open to reduced volume to lockout, and tallies with similar settings on the synced Fox fork.

The SRAM transmission is light, the Shimano Deore brakes are excellent and the Syncros finishing kit includes decent wheels and saddle, plus a well-shaped short-stem, mid-width flat bar cockpit

We love the Scott’s mix of low weight and high stiffness, as it helps create surprisingly playful and descent-dialled handling. The Spark’s kit levels are good for the price too. But it’s the usual Scott story of whether you like the idea of the remote shock switching – or not – that will ultimately decide if the Spark ignites your riding enthusiasm.

This article was originally published in What Mountain Bike magazine

Come to Gotta Ride Bikes to find out more about the 2014 Scott Lineup as well as all the other great bikes, apparel and nutrition we have in store for you— PLUS SO MUCH MORE

Visit us in Boerne or Spring Branch

2014 Scott Solace 10 Redefines Endurance

The Solace is Scott's new comfort model, designed for sportives, rough roads and long distances. It takes over from the CR1, which continues in the range as an entry-level carbon fiber model. 

(originally published on BikeRadar.com)
Four variants of the Solace will be available: the 30 (Shimano 105), 20 (Shimano Ultegra 11-speed), 10 (Dura-Ace 9000) and Premium (Dura-Ace Di2). BikeRadar tested the Solace 10 at Scott's international launch in the Swiss Alps.

See A More Race Oriented 2014 Scott Bike in the Scott Addict SL HERE

Ride & handling: Comfort and stability with undertones of raciness

The Solace has a shorter top tube and taller head tube than Scott's race models, as is the sportive bike convention. From the off you feel more relaxed and ready to ride for a long time, not a fast time.
While we were initially cynical about the frame's split Comfort and Power Zones (see below), they are surprisingly tangible. Aiming the Solace straight through broken sections of Switzerland's generally excellent roads quickly established that it successfully reduces shocks and vibration through the saddle.

Furthermore, aggressive out-of-the-saddle efforts and fast descending confirmed that the bottom bracket and head tube rigidity aren't compromised. In fact, the power transfer and steering accuracy is on par with that of many dedicated race bikes. The more relaxed geometry makes the steering slower and calmer but, because the precision is retained, cornering is still fun.

We do have some reservations about Scott's approach to comfort, though. Rather than focus on vibration damping, they've worked on increasing the controlled flex at the saddle and front axle. This means they can easily quantify the gains and claim, for instance, that the Solace is 42 percent more comfortable than the CR1.

The Solace is light and responsive. Hard climbing is fun and rewarding; you don't feel as though you're having to drag the bike up hills. Factor in the ultra-compact gearing and it's a machine to help you conquer the next challenging ride you think might be beyond you.

Less frantic and more cossetting than a pure race bike, the Solace is still ready to throw down when there's a town sign to sprint for or a demanding descent to carve up.

If your sportive goals revolve around high placings and gold-standard times, the Solace's compromises (small as they might be) are probably more than you'll want to live with. The taller riding position and fatter tires make it noticeably slower than the new Scott Addict we rode back-to-back on the same roads (stay tuned for a first ride review of that bike). If you're that speed focused then you should be on a race bike. And probably in an actual race.

Frame & equipment: Split personality frame with Syncros and Shimano kit

There are two versions of the Solace frame – the Premium uses Scott's higher grade HMX Net carbon fiber for both the frame and fork (claimed to weigh 890g and 330g respectively in a 54cm size), while the standard model is made from the more affordable HMF Net (950g frame, 380g fork; still very light). Every frame has size-specific geometry and layup, including the women's Contessa versions.
Scott began R&D for the Solace by researching the role of each frame section in terms of ride comfort and pedalling stiffness. They found that the strength of the head tube, down tube, bottom bracket and chainstays are – as you'd expect – essential to creating a laterally and torsionally stiff frame for efficient power transfer.

Scott's engineers also found that the seatstays, seat tube and top tube play a much lesser role in frame performance but a far greater one in comfort. This led them to split the frame into the Power Zone and Comfort Zone areas, optimizing the design of each accordingly.

One of the first things you'll notice is that the rear brake is mounted under the chainstays, behind the bottom bracket. This is something you will see on many time trial bikes but it isn't to make the Solace more aerodynamic. Rather, it relieves the seatstays of braking duty, freeing them up to provide comfort.

The seatstays are very thin and there's no brake bridge, so you can actually squeeze them together by as much as 10mm with one hand. At their top ends, they join to the top tube more than the seat tube, allowing each part to flex in a more natural direction to provide damping.

The seatpost is another key element of the ride comfort – it's a Syncros FL2.0 of 27.2mm diatameter; an 'Ergoptimized' carbon layup means it's designed to flex backwards to take the sting out of bumps, without wobbling back and forth. Clever stuff.

Syncros are owned by Scott and their component range has had a huge makeover for 2014, so it's no surprise to see it all over the Solace 10 – saddle, seatpost, stem, bar and wheels. The saddle has chromoly rails and the cockpit is all aluminium. The wheels are the OEM-only aluminium RP2.0 models, shod with 25mm Schwalbe One V-Guard tires.

The Solace 10 has a complete Shimano Dura-Ace 9000 11-speed groupset, with a sportive friendly 50/34 crankset and 11-32 cassette combination.

2013 Scott Plasma Premium Road Bike Named Best in Men's Fitness Top Ten!

World Record Setter, Fastest Ironman Tri Bike

Scott Plasma Premium

Scott’s Plasma Premium tri bike was the fastest steed in this year’s Kona Ironman World Championship, when Sebastian Kienle powered his mount to a rookie win. The bike also set an Ironman world record last year with a super aero carbon frame that shaves weight where it isn’t necessary and reinforces key areas for maximum efficiency. We’re not saying you’ll win the next Kona, but you’ll break records—if only your own. Caveat: faster and lighter means an emptier pocket.


Check out a NEW Scott Mountain Bikes HERE: The 2014 Scott Genius 740 (Video Review)

or, Check out ANOTHER Scott Bike that Made a "Top List" on BikeMagic HERE


Here are the features of this incredible bike:

Integrated Steering System:

Fully integrated frame and stem system, Toptube, and stem continuity. Fully integrated cable routing is compatible with Shimano Di-2

 

IMP Technology Twin Turbo

Scott's engineers have developed IMP, one of the newest technologies applied to carbon production. The toptubne, headtube, seat tube and down tube are produced in a single step using a top-secret process. Scott's proprietary process allows for lighter construction by removing 11% of the material from the headtube intersection while increasing strength by utilizing high modulus stressed fibers for more precise fiber placement in critical areas. To compliment the IMP process, the frames benefit from the Naked External Tubeset which eliminates the cosmetic carbon layer to shave precious grams.

 

 Adjustable Seatpost

The integrated seatclamp increases the bike's aerodynamic properties and reduces drag without sacrificing function.






SPEC LIST


Fork: Scott Plasma 3, 1" carbon, Integrated
Headset: Ritchey WCS Integrated, 1" drop-in headset
Rear Derailleur: Sram Red Carbon Ceramic, black
Front Derailleur: Sram Red Carbon, black
Shifters: Sram Red, R2C Carbon Shifter
Brake Levers: Profile ABS Carbon
Crankset: Sram Red Carbon black, 53 x 39 TT
BB-Set: Sram INT BB Press Fit
Handlebar: Profile Svet
Stem: Profile Plasma 3, 1", 31.8mm
Pedals: None included
Seatpost: Plasma 3 with Ritchey WCS, adjustable head
Seat: Fizik Arione Tri 2 Carbon
Front Hub: Zipp
Rear Hub: Zipp
Chain: Sram Red PC-1091
Cassette: Sram Red, 10 speed, 11-25
Spokes: Zipp
Rims: F: Zipp Carbon 404 Firecrest Tubular R: Zipp Carbon 808 Firecrest Tubular
Tires: Continental Competition Tubular, 28"x 22 mm
Weight: 7.50 kg / 16.52 lbs

Bicycle Maintenance Checklist - Before and After Ride, Monthly, Yearly

If You Want To Keep Your Bike in Tip-Top Shape, You Should Follow This Daily, Weekly, Monthly, and Yearly Maintenance Checklist

Perhaps you just bought a new bike. Or maybe you have been riding for quite some time now— either way it is important to make sure that your bike is operating properly all the time!

Of course, the type of riding, the frequency that you ride, and the terrain you ride on all play a role in determining your maintenance schedule. If you ride 150 miles a week through mud and rain, you will need to be much more vigilant about keeping your bike in good working order. Conversely, if you are a recreational rider that only rides a few days out of the week, you can be a little more relaxed in your routine. But don't get too relaxed!

BEFORE EVERY RIDE:

• Check tire air pressure
• Check brakes and cables
• Make sure your crank set is tight
• Make sure your quick release hubs are tight

AFTER EVERY RIDE:

• Inspect tires for glass, gravel shards, and cuts on tread and sidewall.
• Check your wheels to see if they are still true
• Clean the bike's mechanical parts as necessary. Once a week or every 200 miles. Lubricate chain (with dry lube; or every other week/400 miles with wet chain lube).

 ONCE A MONTH:

• Completely clean the bike, including the drivetrain if necessary
• Inspect and lubricate brake levers, derailleurs, and all cables.
• Inspect pedals and lubricate SPD style cleats. Inspect tires for wear, rotate or replace if needed
• Inspect and check for looseness in the:

   → Stem binder bolt
   → Handlebar binder bolt
   → Seatpost binder bolt (or quick release)
   → Seat fixing bolt
   → Crank bolts
   → Chainring bolts
   → Derailleur mounting bolts
   → Bottle cage bolts
   → Rack mounting bolts
   → Brake and derailleur cable anchors
   → Brake and shifter lever mounting bolts
   → Brake mounting bolts

EVERY THREE MONTHS:

• Inspect frame and fork for paint cracks or bulges that may indicate frame or part damage; pay particular attention to all frame joints
• Visually inspect for bent components: seat rails, seat post, stem, handlebars, chainrings, crankarms, brake calipers and brake levers.

EVERY SIX MONTHS:

• Inspect and readjust bearings in headset, hubs, pedals and bottom bracket (if possible; some sealed cartridge bearings cannot be adjusted, only replaced

ANNUALLY:

• Disassemble and overhaul; replace all bearings (if possible); and remove and if necessary replace brake and shift cables. This should be performed at 6,000 miles if you ride more than that per year. If you often ride in the rain or mountains you may want to overhaul more often.

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